What's to Eat at Augie's?: Delicious Appetizers in Short Beach

At the end of June 2010, a new restaurant opened in Short Beach. , just down the street from the , serves American and Italian food made from as many local ingredients as are available. Chef and owner John Accardi, who named the restaurant for his youngest son, Augustus, is dedicated to supporting local farmers – he's also a Branford resident.

"I find the quality of the products to be better, as well as inspiring in creating dishes," Accardi expained. Local produce comes from and the in Indian Neck. Four Mile River Farm in Old Lyme supplies ground beef, dairy is purchased from Connecticut dairy company the Farmer's Cow, and Nodine's Smokehouse of Torrington is the source for bacon.

In addition, one of Accardi's staff members provides food for the restaurant. "Our waitress and bartender Kit Luckey is a native Short Beach-er who now runs her own farm where she grows a variety of vegetables," said Accardi. He sometimes requests produce for her to find space for, and she's provided vegetables such as swiss chard, zucchini flowers, tomatoes, kale, padron peppers, and various lettuces for Augie's dishes. The flowers on the tables at the restaurant come from Luckey's farm.

So how do the local ingredients stand up to the taste test? My party ordered the soup of the day (Clam Chowder) and Cured Beef Carpaccio as appetizers, and we were wowed by both dishes. The clam chowder was deliciously spiced and required no additional black pepper, something rarely true of clam chowders. The cream broth had a cheesy flavor, and a thick, rich texture. The carpaccio had a dominant lemon flavor, but beneath the citrus surface, the parmaggiano cheese, salty sliced bresaola, and bitter arugula combined in a perfect compliment.

It is perhaps because the appetizers were so phenomenal that the dinner was less impressive. The Eggplant il Forno had a pleasant texture and a very fresh tasting sauce – tribute, certainly, to the local farm source for the tomatoes. The Steak Fritte, ordered medium, was thinly sliced and tender. The dressing on the greens was too strong in comparison to the subtle flavor combinations in the carpaccio. Both entrees were good, but not quite up to the bar set by our earlier order.

Augie's is intended to be family friendly, and high chairs are provided. But the atmosphere is more conducive to a dinner date without the kids, and it would make a delightful place for meeting friends for an evening of adult conversation.